Feudo Montoni - Grillo della Timpa 2022
The vineyard where this wine comes from, Timpa, takes it’s name from a Sicilian word meaning “steep slope”, which given that it’s on a 70% grade they’ve more than earned. That is, to be blunt, incredibly steep, and paints a picture of gorgeous vines stretching up the Sicilian foothills, basking in the Mediterranean sun under the watchful eye of Mt. Etna.
It’s an environment where Grillo thrives, ripening to perfection thanks to basically perfect exposures in rich volcanic soils and organic farming practices. The concentration on display is what catches at first- Wine Spectator calls it “exuberant”, which I’d agree with but for the caveat that exuberance underscores the precision on display here. I’d liken it to an expert fencer- full of fun flourishes but with the rapier always ready for the strike (though in this case the épée is a crisp and concentrated minerality)
There’s just this incredible vibrancy that makes this so captivating, an effortless show of clean fruit and masterful concentration that resonates with bright citrus and wild Mediterranean herbs, all underlined by this exceptional minerality and acidity that makes this one of the most compelling whites on the shelf.
It’s also one of the most flexible whites on the market as far as food pairings are concerned. You’re fine to put it next to all kinds of fish or fowl, pesto pastas, or with big autumnal salads. We actually had it with a spicy tomato-based curry complete with red pepper and coriander, and this was just perfect. Clean fruit, pristine minerality, and just that little hint of Sicilian salinity is basically the trifecta for a top-tier food wine, especially with the kinds South Asian dishes we gravitate towards.
Wine Spectator: 90 Points
“A zesty white, with vibrant acidity buoying an exuberant range of tangerine, kiwi fruit, pink grapefruit granita and lime blossom notes. Sleek and well-knit, with spice and mineral accents on the finish."
Vinous Media: 90 Points
“The 2022 Grillo Timpa lifts from the glass with a minty freshness, blending sweet green melon with candied lime suggestions. It's soft and enveloping, with brisk acidity ushering in citrus-tinged orchard fruits and saline minerals that add a crunchy sensation. The 2022 finishes perfumed and wickedly fresh. The mouth is left watering as barely-ripe kiwi hints fade."
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