Quentin Jeannot Santenay Clos de la Comme-Dessus 2017

Sale $41.99

91 pts Wine Enthusiast

Hunting for “value” in red Burgundy is my industry’s version of the search for the Holy Grail. Some importers spend their entire careers searching for one, only to be disappointed. Why so hard? Partly due to inheritance laws and partly due to culture, Burgundy is chock full of teeny producers, some producing just a few hundred cases a year. Vineyards are constantly being passed down to a new generation, who take their turn in production. Some know what they are doing… most do not. On rare occasions, a new winemaker steps up and knocks it out of the park. Word spreads like wildfire, and by the time an importer gets to them, prices have typically skyrocketed. Or, we may get just one vintage before prices climb.

So, we are constantly waiting for the stars to align. This is one of those rare celestial moments!

We first discovered young Quentin Jeannot with his 2016 Maranges. Luckily, nobody caught on, and we were able to snag his 2017 at the same price. Fortunately for him, but not for us, the press is starting to pay attention. I grabbed as much as I could of this gem as soon as it came in. Only 3,500 bottles are produced! So get it while you can…

In addition to the value quotient discussed above, there are two other factors at work that make this an exceptional buy.

Comme-Dessus is located just above the 1er Cru vineyard of La Comme, arguably the best of the Santenay 1er Crus. “Above” being the key word… as it is a beacon for “global warming”… meaning the vineyard used to sit at an elevation too high to regularly, and reliably, achieve ripeness. Not so much anymore. These formerly marginal vineyards are now the source for some of the best wines, and best deals, in all of Burgundy!

The other factor is these are, on average, 50 year-old vines. That’s incredibly old in Burgundy, and results in an extremely complex, intensely perfumed wine. High toned red fruits with super complex spicy notes of tea, red flowers and perfumed incense on the nose; sweet core of black cherry, raspberry and toasty, spicy oak on the palate. The finish is plush and a continuation of the savory and fruity qualities of the palate.

“Old vines from a single vineyard form the basis for this beautifully ripe wine. Rich tannins support the generous red fruits. Acidity cuts through to keep the freshness and juiciness that is a vital component.” WE

From the Burgundy website on food pairing: “its supple and intense attack, and its aromatic register with its distinguished finish mean it should be matched with slow-cooked dishes like braised veal or beef, to which its tannins will lend structure without being agressive. Glazed or caramelised poultry in the Asian style would also give it a warm welcome for its meaty texture, as would home-made hamburgers. From the cheese-board: Brie de Meaux, Pont-l’Evêque, Cîteaux, Reblochon,Bleu de Bresse...”


Or reply. The wine is available now in Chapel Hill. Next Wednesday, as ordered, in Hillsborough.