Buglioni Valpolicella Classico Superiore l'Imperfetto 2016

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92 pts James Suckling

Valpolicella is the region in northeastern Italy from which this wine originates. Famous for the deep, inky, slightly sweet, high alcohol wines of Amarone, the region also produces wonderful table wines to be paired with the incredible foods of the Veneto region, centered on the cities of Verona and Venice. Ahh…. Venice…. Lake Garda…

Yeah… you think the folks in those fancy locales are settling for anything less than great wine to drink? I don’t think so.

And yet, in our country, Amarone rules the roost. It’s all anyone thinks about when they here Valpolicella. So these wonderful table reds languish.

Which means VALUE City!

Additionally, this little gem comes from the Classico region. A subset of the larger region, the Classico area is situated on the warmer, well-drained slopes on the western end of the appellation. Warmer is important, as the native Corvina, Rondinella and Corvinone grapes are typically low in alcohol. And the good drainage means the vines fight to find water, resulting in more intense, complex flavors in the more limited grapes produced.

Great! Except how many of you knew that? It’s okay… I had to look it up to remind myself! All of which means that the Classico region yields better grapes, yet the average consumer has no idea and isn’t typically willing to pay for the “Classico” moniker. Which means…

VALUE City! Again,

And, “Superiore?” That’s just another meaningless term, without any real definition or implications on the wine, right? Like the “Reserve” that’s plastered all over California wines? (Right, like a $9 bottle of wine is really “Reserve”.)

Well… actually, Superiore has a legal definition here. It means the wine must have over 12% alcohol (indicating riper grapes, since they cannot add sugar like in other countries). And the wine must be aged for a year before release. But, again, does anyone really know or care in this country? Nope. So, you know what that means…

We’re taking a trip to Value Town!

And one more thing… a portion of the grapes are air-dried to increase their sugar content as well as impart an added layer of complexity and flavors, a la Ripasso and Amarone. Of course, that isn’t anywhere on the label. So we ain’t paying for it!

All aboard the Value Train!

Okay, so it is a great value. You’re convinced. Now, what does it taste like?

Seductive aromas of violets, mint, vanilla and spices lead into an elegant wine, full of ripe black cherry and plum flavors. The wine is round and velvety, but there is bright acidity to balance it, imparting a savory finish that just begs for another sip, and a bite of food. What food? Well, the winery writes: “Excellent with structured first courses, with truffles or with porcini mushrooms. Excellent with grilled red meats or baked, lamb, medium-aged cheeses.”

But we can do better than that… the winery also happens to own a restaurant! So let’s see what is on the menu today…

Well, we simply must start with the antipasti… the chef’s choice of local cured meats and homemade sweet and sour pickled vegetables. Then, hmm… yes, please, let’s have the Veronese macaroni with a ragout made from duck leg braised in this very same wine! And then, secondi? Main course? How ‘bout we just share some more of the first courses? Tagliatella with sautéed artichokes, mint and Stracciatella cheese. Pacchero (wide pasta) with anchovies, capers, cherry tomatoes and turnip tops cream. And throw in the seasonal selection of fresh vegetables as well!

“Here's a very beautiful Valpolicella showing fresh lavender and violets, as well as dried herbs. Vibrant and mineral on the medium-bodied palate with citrusy undertones throughout. Drink now.” JS


Or reply. The wine will be available Wednesday afternoon in Chapel Hill. Friday, as ordered, in Hillsborough.