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Aubert Lefas (Domaine Lejeune) Pommard 1er Cru les Rugiens Bas 2018

Sale $99.99

93-95 pts Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy

I know it is startling to hear this, but I will say it… this is an incredible “value”… a “steal” even. “Startling” because I recognize $100 bottles and “value” don’t usually go hand in hand. So stick with me… ladies and gentlemen of the jury, I present Exhibit A.

In 2018, esteemed Burgundy critic Jasper Morris gave 5 Stars, his highest accolade, and 93-95 pts to six Pommard wines, including our offering. The other five?

• Comte Armand Pommard Clos des Epeneau 1er 2018 @ $269
• Michel Lafarge Pommard Les Pezerolles 2018 @ $225
• Domaine de Montille Pommard Rugiens-bas 1er Cru 2018 @ $175
• Domaine Parent Pommard Epenots 1er 2018 @ $169
• Domaine de Montille Pommard Pézerolles 1er Cru 2018 @ $130

An average of $193.60 per bottle should you want to have the six-pack collection of top 2018 Pommard.

Or you can just grab this baby at roughly half the price! Exhibit A complete.

Oh wait... Exhibit A1... this is an alternate label for Domaine Lejeune... the lowest price of which is $144 in Italy... Wow!

Exhibit B… so just what is this Pommard appellation? And Rugiens in particular?

The official Vins de Bourgogne website describes Pommard thusly, “Beware of preconceived notions! The fame of Pommard in the 19th century earned it the image of a wine that is both forceful and virile. In reality, time, terroir and methods of vinification have all combined to create a more subtle reality, a wine that is both richer and more sensitive. Its colour is the deep, dark red with mauve highlights which caused Victor Hugo to speak of it as “night in combat with day”. Its aromas are redolent of blackberry, bilberry, or gooseberry, cherry pit and ripe plum. Often, wild and feline notes develop with age. At full maturity, it tends towards leather, chocolate and pepper. It needs to be given time to open up to its fullest extent and to display its mouth-filling texture, its firm but delicate structure, its fruit-filled mouth, and its chewy tannins, which by then will be properly smoothed down. A “rich” wine ? Certainly.”

Pommard is so closely associated with the best of Burgundy that the most influential Pinot Noir clone planted in Oregon is the “Pommard” clone.

And Rugiens? Along with Pommard Epenots, many believe these vineyards should be classified as Grand Cru. In fact, Aubert Lefas, winemaker here, but also Pommard union president, unearthed a document from the original 1936 classification of Burgundy vineyards that indicated both vineyards were initially designated Grand Cru. But, at the time, the owners of these vineyards were wary of the restrictive Grand Cru production laws and declined the offer. Oops.

So… Grand Cru vineyard in all but name. Exhibit B complete.

Then there is this wine, the most important exhibit of all. From a vineyard planted in 1933! Only 100 cases are produced. The wine is made using 75% whole clusters (adding tannic strength and longevity). 40% new oak. This baby is classic in all aspects. Brilliant high-toned nose of dark fruits and herb rubbed grilled meat with earth notes; on the palate the wine has a great attack; deep and compact ultra-ripe black fruits, leather, soil, calcaire with a silky texture; the power and complexity continue through the finish.

“These vines have been horse ploughed for the last 15 years. The wine is not exceptionally deep in colour but gorgeously perfumed on the nose. Haunting roses and ripe cherries, a little spiced up strawberry or two, fine depth but overall it definitely has the class. Beautiful and balanced finish. “ JM

Reply to order. The wine arrives in roughly 4 weeks.