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Aglianico is one of the Italy’s most underappreciated and misunderstood grapes, thus even the best remain relatively undiscovered, resulting in superb value. Like this one, , one of the finest reds produced anywhere in Southern Italy, available for under $50 a bottle!
Galardi Terra di Lavoro 2017
Sale $49.99 net
95 pts Vinous / 95 pts Decanter / 96 pts James Suckling
All too often we hear purveyors pitching Aglianico as "the Barolo of the South" because a critic, decades ago, thought it was a way to help raise the profile of Aglianico. While a useful "advertisement" back then, it is either laziness or ignorance that keeps the phrase being uttered, because short of the fact that both are Italian reds that can age for yonks, they really have very little else in common, neither in flavor or in profile.
Aglianico is one of Italy’s noblest grapes and has ancient roots. It is thought to have been first introduced to southern Italy by the Greeks in the 6th century BC, the Barolo DOCG was even created until 1980! Stylistically they’re completely different wines too. Aglianico’s small dark berries produce dark complex spiced wines, whereas Nebbiolo (of Barolo) shows more red fruits and floral rose petal overtones. It’s like comparing the Great Pyramid to the Eifel Tower, they’re both magnificent feats of human ingenuity, but they just don’t compare. In fact if you're a merely using Barolo as a ploy to sell some Aglianico then perhaps you don't understand either of them? I'll just say that top Aglianicos like this one are fantastic wines that have broad appeal, if you love robust Italian reds, or even wines like Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah I think you’ll really enjoy this wine.
Galardi is a family owned estate winery located in Campania. They make just this one wine and its sensational. With 25 acres of organically vineyards planted on the lower slopes of Monte Roccamonfino their vines thrive in the volcanic soils of this extinct volcano. At 1500 ft in elevation the vines enjoy a break from the often scorching hot summer days with cooler mountain nights and gentle sea breezes coming off the nearby Gulf of Gatea. Aglianico is noted for its early bud break, yet it is late to ripen, this extended hangtime produces lots of flavor. Galardi’s Aglianico is enhanced by up to 20% Piedirosso, another indigenous local grape that adds even more depth and intrigue to this complex wine. Aged 12 months in French oak barrels, and a further 10 months in bottle prior to release, there is no doubt this is a full-bodied wine yet there’s a level of sophistication that really sets this apart from the pack. The nose reveals blackcurrant, blueberry, smoky spice notes, rocky minerals and violets adding an enchanting floral lift. Rich and powerful dark fruit flavors follow spilling across your tongue with plush appeal. There’s a firm but incredibly well-integrated core of tannins giving great structure to this red, and a finish that seems to last for minutes. Incredible now, decant for an hour or so if you can. But be sure to buy enough that you can age a few too. I tasted this wine over three days and it just got better and better, I expect it’ll age for two decades easily. A spectacular wine.
"The 2017 Terra di Lavoro is wonderfully seductive in its youthful state, wafting up from the glass effortlessly, with a bouquet that mixes wild blueberries and black raspberries with sweet lavender, violet florals, and smoky spiced citrus. The 2017 takes hold of the palate with salty minerality, but not before coating everything it touches with luxurious, velvety textures, cascading ripe black fruits across the senses, and leaving a purple floral tinge. Grippy tannins frame the long and dramatic finish, resonating on dark fruits, savory spice, and lingering florals. There is really so much going on here that it’s hard to focus on just one thing; but if nothing else, it’s the salty grip of the 2017 Terra di Lavoro that boggles the mind, brimming up over the wine’s intense dark fruit. Lose this for a decade in the cellar and marvel once it’s unearthed." – Eric Guido, Vinous
"There’s a unique floral and herbal edge to this, in the form of peppercorns, aniseed, licorice and five spice; wait for this to open up in the glass (decanting suggested), and along comes a cohort of dark fruit in the form of dark plums, mulberries and blackcurrants. Dense and flavorful, yet wild and pretty tannins envelop the mouth, coating layers of dark fruit and painting them in colorful hues. It’s full-bodied and full-throttle, but its beauty is understated and the acidity and fruit are playful and subtle." JS
"A flagship Campanian red, this Aglianico (80%) and Piedirosso (20%) blend is from Alto Casertano on volcanic soils with western exposure. At 450m, the altitude is crucial in this warmer climate compared to Irpinia. The hot 2017 vintage was interpreted in an outstanding way, with a fruity nose full of Mediterranean herbs, plus crunchy fruits on the palate. Firm yet ripe tannins and refreshing acidity give great balance to the dense, velvety fruit, with a cioccolato di Modica finish. Delicious to drink now, with potential for the long haul." Decanter
.jpg) Or reply. The wine is available Tuesday in Chapel Hill. Wednesday, as ordered, in Hillsborough. |