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There are THREE wines being offered here… reload on Bordeaux while we wait out the next shipments... and hope they make it before tariffs are renewed. So many shipping issues right now, and this Suez Canal fiasco is not helping! Sigh... I need a drink... oh right... that's what I am selling...
Chateau Fontesteau Haut-Medoc 2015
Sale 21.99
91 pts Wine Advocate
Eric Boissenot, “Bordeaux’s Secret Weapon” as the Wine Spectator called him, is the consulting winemaker here. He consults or has consulted for Lafite Rothschild, Mouton-Rothschild, Margaux and Latour, among others. Heard of them?
One of his paramount influences with this estate has been the increased emphasis on Merlot. While we normally associate the Left Bank (St Estephe, Pauillac, St Julien, Margaux, etc) with Cabernet Sauvignon, the reality is that the northernmost regions have much less of the stony, gravelly soil found further south. The stony soils are what allows Cabernet Sauvignon to fully ripen, as they absorb and then reflect the sun’s heat back into the wines. At Fontesteau, and other nearby estates, a heavy clay and limestone base dominates, resulting in poorer-draining soils, delayed ripening and higher acidity levels in the wines. Combined with the heavier influence of the cool Atlantic Ocean, and the reality is Merlot fares better here than it does in other Medoc areas.
The results speak for themselves… just really gorgeous, showing the dominant aroma and flavor characteristics of the 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, while the luscious Merlot (45%) adds red fruit and a plsu midpalate. “the 2015 Fontesteau has a generous bouquet with blackberry, raspberry, cedar and sous bois scents that are nicely defined. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, quite fine tannin, plenty of edgy red fruit and impressive delineation on the finish that shows focus and length. This is recommended. Bravo.”
These next two wines are Merlot-dominant from the Right Bank appellation of Castillon, one of the best sources for $50+ wines that sell for under $30. Why?
Okay, way back in 1855, Emperor Napoleon III requested a classification system for Bordeaux wines in advance of the 1855 Exposition Universelle de Paris, where the best were to be on display for visitors around the world. After much jockeying and lobbying, only the wines from the Left Bank of the Gironde Estuary, that is, the Medoc and Graves, were included. Makes some sense considering these were the estates closest to the large port city of Bordeaux, and much of the Right Bank was “rural” and not planted to vines yet. The entire Right Bank – Pomerol, St. Emilion, Castillon, Fronsac, etc. were excluded. Thus, with the ensuing world interest in Bordeaux, the Right Bank was left behind.
Feeling left out the wineries of St. Emilion created their own Grand Cru system and began aggressively marketing their wines. Encircling the smaller port city of Libourne, they had ready access to shipping their wines. Put them together, and St. Emilion became the dominant player in the Right Bank. Heck, Pomerol wasn’t even known on the international stage till the 1982 vintage!
Long story short… if you ain’t got the lobbying connections, access to markets and savvy marketing, you don’t have much of a demand.
Which brings us to the Castillon region, adjoining St. Emilion to the east. Castillon, obviously, didn’t have any of those tools. But you know what they do have? The same limestone rich vein that runs through the best estates in St. Emilion. In fact, Ch. Pitray is mere miles from favorite Chateau like Faugeres and Tour St. Christophe. Same soil. Same weather. Same everything… except marketing!
And that’s my story… and I’m sticking to it. (Collin Raye shoutout!)
Alcee Castillon Cotes de Bordeaux 2016
Sale 27.99
91 pts Wine Advocate / 91 pts Vinous
92% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc. “Just as it was from barrel, the 2016 Alcée is rich, sumptuous and hedonistic. Red plum, dried herb, cherry, spice, tobacco and iron give the 2016 notable aromatic and flavor complexity. The interplay of dense fruit and persistent tannins makes for a compelling wine that delivers serious intensity at its level. The 2016 is super-ripe and potent, but has enough brightness and overall energy to make for a very complete wine.” Vinous
“Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, the 2016 Alcee leaps from the glass with notes of blueberry compote, kirsch and black tea plus hints of cigar boxes and lavender. Medium to full-bodied, it completely coats the palate with perfumed red and black fruits framed by firm, grainy tannins, finishing with great length.” WA
Ch. D’Aiguilhe Castillon Cotes de Bordeaux 2016
Sale $29.99
92 pts Jeb Dunnuck / 92 pts Decanter / 92 pts Wine Spectator
“85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc brought up in 30% new barrels before being bottled with no fining. As with the white, it has brilliant limestone character as well as vibrant strawberry and black raspberry fruits, hints of violets and flowers, background oak, and medium to full-bodied richness. It’s a balanced, high-quality 2016 well worth seeking out. Drink it over the coming 15 years or so.” JD
“Ripe, seductive nose: lush fruit with a whisper of chalky freshness. The palate is plush, juicy and gourmand but vibrant, too. Bound by a powerful but refined tannic frame. Appealing, great balance.” Decanter
.jpg) Or reply. The wine will be available Tuesday in Chapel Hill. Wednesday, as ordered, in Hillsborough. |