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Okay, way back in 1855, Emperor Napoleon III requested a classification system for Bordeaux wines in advance of the 1855 Exposition Universelle de Paris, where the best were to be on display for visitors around the world. After much jockeying and lobbying, only the wines from the Left Bank of the Gironde Estuary, that is, the Medoc and Graves, were included. Makes some sense considering these were the estates closest to the large port city of Bordeaux, and much of the Right Bank was “rural” and not planted to vines yet. The entire Right Bank – Pomerol, St. Emilion, Castillon, Fronsac, etc. were excluded. Thus, with the ensuing world interest in Bordeaux, the Right Bank was left behind.
Feeling left out the wineries of St. Emilion created their own Grand Cru system and began aggressively marketing their wines. Encircling the smaller port city of Libourne, they had ready access to shipping their wines. Put them together, and St. Emilion became the dominant player in the Right Bank. Heck, Pomerol wasn’t even known on the international stage till the 1982 vintage!
Long story short… if you ain’t got the lobbying connections, access to markets and savvy marketing, you don’t have much of a demand.
Which brings us to the Castillon region, adjoining St. Emilion to the east. Castillon, obviously, didn’t have any of those tools. But you know what they do have? The same limestone rich vein that runs through the best estates in St. Emilion. In fact, Ch. Alcee is mere miles from favorite Chateau like Faugeres and Tour St. Christophe. Same soil. Same weather. Same everything… except marketing!
And that’s my story… and I’m sticking to it. (Collin Raye shoutout!)
Alcee Castillon Cotes de Bordeaux 2016
Sale 27.99
91 pts Wine Advocate / 91 pts Vinous
92% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc. “Just as it was from barrel, the 2016 Alcée is rich, sumptuous and hedonistic. Red plum, dried herb, cherry, spice, tobacco and iron give the 2016 notable aromatic and flavor complexity. The interplay of dense fruit and persistent tannins makes for a compelling wine that delivers serious intensity at its level. The 2016 is super-ripe and potent, but has enough brightness and overall energy to make for a very complete wine.” Vinous
“Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, the 2016 Alcee leaps from the glass with notes of blueberry compote, kirsch and black tea plus hints of cigar boxes and lavender. Medium to full-bodied, it completely coats the palate with perfumed red and black fruits framed by firm, grainy tannins, finishing with great length.” WA
Ch. D’Aiguilhe Castillon Cotes de Bordeaux 2016
Sale $29.99
92 pts Jeb Dunnuck / 92 pts Decanter / 92 pts Wine Spectator
“85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc brought up in 30% new barrels before being bottled with no fining. As with the white, it has brilliant limestone character as well as vibrant strawberry and black raspberry fruits, hints of violets and flowers, background oak, and medium to full-bodied richness. It’s a balanced, high-quality 2016 well worth seeking out. Drink it over the coming 15 years or so.” JD
“Ripe, seductive nose: lush fruit with a whisper of chalky freshness. The palate is plush, juicy and gourmand but vibrant, too. Bound by a powerful but refined tannic frame. Appealing, great balance.” Decanter
.jpg) Or reply. The wines are available now in Chapel Hill. Wednesday, as ordered, in Hillsborough. |