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Le Macchiole was founded in the 1970’s, just after Sassicaia and Tignanello began putting Super Tuscan blends on the map, and Tuscan legend Lodovico Antinori credits them as one of the major reasons why Bolgheri wines (the district that launched Super Tuscans) have been so successful. The boutique Macchiole estate has taken a different approach to some, focusing on Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Syrah as single-varietal wines. In the early 80’s they replanted their vineyards a bit further inland where they believed those grapes would thrive, and have since been ruthlessly dedicated to crafting limited amounts of these wines from tiny yields of intensely-concentrated grapes.
Here we have Le Macchiole’s top two wines, Messorio (100% Merlot), and Paleo (100% Cabernet Franc). Both are extremely limited.
Le Macchiole Paleo Rosso 2017 - $115.99 net (Beats US best online by $45 a bottle!)
97+ pts Wine Advocate - The Three Graces of Le Macchiole are Messorio, Scrio and Paleo (Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Franc, respectively). Of these three top-tier releases, my favorite is the 2017 Paleo. This is an upright and direct expression of the grape that carefully sheds some dusty or mineral aromas before opening the way for determined black fruit, charred meat, spice and cured tobacco or cigar. There is quite a bit of oak, but it works beautifully against the natural intensity and rich concentration of the hot vintage. More unexpected are those pretty tones of lilac, blue flower and aniseed that add to the detailed rendering and complexity of the bouquet. This wine won my heart.
96 pts VInous - The 2017 Paleo Rosso is superb. It is also the wine in this range that seems to have handled the rigors of 2017 best. Then again, that is the magic of Cabernet Franc on the Tuscan Coast. The aromatics alone are so alluring. Sweet pipe tobacco, mocha, dried flowers, mint, sage and cedar give Paleo its aromatic lift. Some varietal character has been baked out because of the heat of the year. In exchange, readers will find a Paleo Rosso that will drink well with just a year or two in bottle. The 2017 was fermented in cement and aged for 14 months in French oak barrels, 90% new with light toast. 95 pts James Suckling - Aromas of currants and fresh herbs, such as bay leaf and basil, follow through to a full body with layers of ripe tannins and a chewy finish. This is just a baby now and needs three or four years to come around.
Le Macchiole Messorio 2017 - $219.99 net (beats US best online by $30 a bottle)
97 pts James Suckling - This wine shows beautiful clarity and class on the nose with roses, tar, currants, green and black olives and plums. It’s exceptionally fine-tannined with such polish and finesse. So sophisticated and intense for this vintage. Long, chewy finish, yet this is mouth-filling and caressing. Pure merlot.
95 pts Wine Advocate - Messorio is a wine that beautifully reflects the characteristics of the vintage and is a very accurate measuring stick of how any single vintage will eventually perform both in terms of near-term accessibility and long-term cellar aging. That said, the Le Macchiole 2017 Messorio plays its strongest cards in terms of mouthfeel and texture, revealing a robust structure and firmly integrated tannins that come from both the richly concentrated fruit and the careful use of oak. The wine shows a heavy center of gravity and a solid base of dark fruit that is enhanced by caramel, brown sugar, spice and creamy blackberry preserves. It does offer immediate appeal, but I'd wait a few more years to give this 2017 Messorio more time to flesh out and evolve.
95 pts Vinous - The 2017 Messorio (100% Merlot) is classy and polished to the core. It is also incredibly young and not at all forthcoming. Messorio is a wine that needs a surprising amount of time in bottle to truly shine. I expect that will be the case here as well. Today, the 2017 is all about fruit and density. Time in the cellar should allow for its aromatics to emerge more fully. Overall, though, this is a fairly restrained style, in keeping with the showing of 2017 Bolgheri reds more broadly. All the elements come together so gracefully in this striking wine. Production is down around 20%.
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