Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner Tradition 2017

Sale $48.99 

Beats Best US Price Online!!! 

96 pts Wine Enthusiast / 93-95 pts Falstaff
 
This is the last bottling of winemaker Michi Moosbrugger’s "Tradition" wines with a vintage date. Starting this fall, he will introduce multi-vintage, multi-variety wines. If you've been following me for any length of time, you know this is my favorite of all Gruners! It represents Moosbrugger's exploration into a different style of winemaking. An older style of winemaking, before technology and industrialization. This is not a polemic on modern wines, it is simply an attempt to understand what wines used to be like, and to see if there was an alternative to the clean, oxygen-free wines made today.  If you see a parallel with the amphorae wines of Radikon and Gravner, you aren’t far off. But while those explored ancient techniques, Michi is not ignoring the knowledge that has come forth in the past 200 or 2,000 years. He’s not trying to recreate something, but rather explore a different style.

That style is one where the wines are “raised” - think “elevage” in France. Every 3-4 months over the course of two years, the wines are moved from one set of barrels to others, blending and removing from the lees along the way. Rather than treat oxygen as the enemy, Michi looks at it as part of the wine’s “life”. As he explains, “The task of the cellar master was to identify the potential of the wine and according to that, ‘teach’ him up to his potential. This can be seen in contradiction to our today’s modern imagination that great wine is made in the vineyard and not in the cellar. In our todays mind we belief that the big art of making a great wine is to do ‘nothing’.”

"The aromas of fir honey, salty yeast and white pepper combine on the vivid, spicy nose. Those flavors also play on the slender, juicy palate where glorious sprays of white pepper take center stage against a backdrop of salt, honey and pear. " WE

"Delicate underlaid peach and pineapple, a hint of apple and tangerine candles. Good complexity, juicy, elegant, mineral in the finish, multifaceted acid structure, apple nuances in the finish, good development potential." Falstaff

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