Les Hauts de Milly Bourgogne Blanc 2019

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“Bourgogne Blanc” is a broad category, covering every entry-level Chardonnay across the entire region of Burgundy. Typically, the “Bourgogne” appellation refers to those areas just outside of the more famous ones, such as Puligny-Montrachet, Meursault, etc. In any case, the wines are made in a huge range of styles, and there is really no way to know what you are getting simply by the label.

So… what are you getting here?

Les Hauts de Milly is an alternate label of the famed Chablis producer Bernard Defaix. For his Bourgogne Blanc, Defaix uses vineyards located just outside the Chablis appellation in Auxerre.

“So, this is kind of like Chablis?”

Not exactly… you see, Chablis is known for its limestone soil, resulting in high acidity and its famed “minerality”. While located adjacent to Chablis, Auxerre doesn’t have the same level of limestone. Rather it is dominated by clay and chalk. “And?...”

The heavy clay soil produces a richer, more full-bodied style of Chardonnay. And yet… the vineyards are still located far north of the rest of Burgundy. The climate is cooler, resulting in higher acidity and crisp flavors.

That combination – the fullness from clay soil along with the crispness from the cool climate – is what makes this wine so unique and delicious! It offers a balance – a yin and yang – that elevates this “basic” Bourgogne Blanc to another level. Lovely floral and citrus aromas lead into a wine loaded with granny smith apple and crisp pear flavors. There’s a creamy richness to the wine, although it doesn’t see any oak. Crowd-pleaser? Yes, please! Add to that the 2019 vintage - near perfect conditions have resulted in an amazing bottle of wine at a ridiculous price.


Or reply. The wine is available now in Chapel Hill. Thursday, as ordered, in Hillsborough.