Corbon - Blanc de Blancs NV
View from the Cellar: 95 Points
“The Corbon house style sees that the vins clairs do not undergo malolactic fermentation for their flagship bottling of vintage Blanc de Blancs, giving these wines a lovely spine of acidity on which to age very long and gracefully. The Corbon family compensates for the snappy youthful acidities of their non-malo Avize bottlings by giving all of their wines relatively long aging on their fine lees, so that none of their vintage-dated bottlings even leave the cellar until they have spent at least eight to ten years aging sur latte! And even after ten years, Agnès Corbon is in no hurry to release a wine if it has not yet started to blossom.
Corbon family has long taken advantage of the yield regulations in Champagne and only used the first pressed juice, or Cuvée for all of their own wines, selling off the second-pressing of Tailles, which they firmly believe gives them superior quality juice to work with in the cellars. As luxury houses such as Champagne Krug also only use the Cuvée for their own wines, it seems pretty clear that this is the superior course for growers in the region to take and I wonder why more do not avail themselves of this opportunity (if they can afford to do so.)
Agnès Corbon has made one of the most beautiful examples of the 2010 vintage in Champagne that I have had the pleasure to taste. The wine just blossoms a bit more each time I return to it, with this most recent bottle showing a refined aromatic constellation of golden delicious apples, pears, brioche, a hint of passion fruit, chalky minerality, lemon peel and a topnote of citrus blossoms. On the palate the wine is pure, precise and full, with an excellent core of fruit, fine soil undertow and cut, refined mousse and a long, racy and beautifully balanced finish. Though this is a non-malo bottling (like all of the Corbon vintage-dated wines), the maison’s practice of giving the wine fully ten years aging sur latte prior to disgorgement allows the acids to relax beautifully, so that a finishing dosage of six grams per liter perfectly balances the wine. Great juice. 2027-2075+." - John Gilman
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