Hiedler - Löss Gruner Veltliner 2022
Price: $27.99
| Producer | Hiedler |
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| Country | Austria |
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| Region | Kamptal |
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| Varietal | Gruner Veltliner |
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| Vintage | 2022 |
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| Sku | 14415 |
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| Size | 750ml |
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If you have been groovin’ to our Gruners over the past few years, this should not come as a huge surprise. The wines from Weingut Hiedler have been some of my favorite. The “house style” is typically rich, luscious and voluptuous. Combined with bright acidity and crystal-clear flavors, I find them eminently delicious to drink. Maybe a little too much so, as the critics seem to overlook the wines precisely because they aren’t deemed “serious” enough. As former importer Terry Theise commented, “I like that the wines speak a radically different dialect than the colleagues’ wines do. I love how almost “opulent” these are, and most of all I adore how clear and shapely they are, even with their effusive richness and oleaginous textures. We can easily surmise how the other growers’ wines work—we know that language—but it’s much harder to fathom how wines as plush as these can also be so refreshing and so palpably structured. The wines are riddled and jammed with soul and personality, there are no other wines like them, and you know what? We underrate them, you, me, all of us.”
Perhaps for not much longer, considering the effusive praise for this entry-level wine. The next generation, Lugwig Hiedler Jr., is getting more involved and he has a preference for more just a little more racy wines. Not a wholesale change in style, but perhaps just a little fine-tuning. The result is still decidedly “Hiedler”… yet with a bit more refinement. Still packed with apricot and exotic citrus fruits, with just a bit more savory white pepper spice on the finish, this beauty is a dream for pairing with food. The end result is nothing short of spectacular!
Wine Spectator: 90 Points
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