La Cave Du Prieure - Jacquere 2021

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Producer	La Cave Du Prieure
Country	France
Region	Savoie
Varietal	Jacquere
Vintage	2021
Sku	15769
Size	750ml

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If you’re like me, this might be the first Jacquere, or even first Savoie wine, you’ve encountered. You’re in for a treat… But for those already in the know, I’ll leave the intriguing back-story for the end, for anyone whose interested. So on to the wine…

This terrific white from the foothills of the French Alps is perhaps the most pure expression of a region; it must be that mountain runoff! The passionate Barlet men currently running the estate of La Cave de Prieure in the smaller Jongieux region of the Vin de Savoie AOC are the fourth and fifth generation to take up the mantle. The farmers’ descendants vinify all their white wines in temp controlled vats, keeping the must cool, for a month long fermentation. They age on fine lees which adds an unbelievable, textural pearl to this delicate, and above all, refreshing wine.

Clocking in at a meager 11.5% alcohol and yet still bone dry, it’s super easy to indulge in a second or even third glass. Lots of green apple, bosc pear, bitter almond and citrus notes are supported by a lovely minerality, bright acidity, and surprisingly long finish. The descriptor ‘Alpine-clean’ might bring to mind a chewing gum or toothpaste commercial nowadays, but it must have come about when some skiers took a sip of this wine… like a mountain summit, it’s whistling with invigorating freshness. What… too much? Well it simply couldn’t be more true. The flinty quality compliments the herbaceousness perfectly, and the crisp, slightly tingly acidity keeps it wonderfully light. Similar to Muscadet, but less leesy with more complex fruit and aromatics. As great as this is on its own, it’s also a terrific food wine. Seafood comes to mind, as does goat cheese and spring vegetables, and of course, in the spirit of “If it grows together, it goes together,” this is a natural with Comté and Gruyere cheeses and of course, fondue!

Considering how long it’s been since the Savoyard grape crossed our threshold, let’s get a lay of the land. And it’s a marled limestone mess… Over 770 years ago, a devasting landslide rocked Mount Granier (pictured left), a 1933m peak near the Swiss border. When this French Pre-Alps region crumbled, the towns in the valley below and it’s residents were sadly wiped out. That must be why they called it Apremont, or ‘bitter mountain’. This name now designates one of the two white wine appellations within Savoie that was able to take root on the rugged debris years later. And boy, do those vines have to work for it, stretching between scree to reach soil and resources. With the other aptly-named region, Abymes, these two villages account for most of the volume coming out of the Vin de Savoie AOC. And most of that production is based on Jacquere. This isn’t a huge region, mind you, and about 80% of wares is consumed by locals and served at ski lodges. So, I’m thankful to get even a little bit of the good stuff from a genuine producer.

So, Jacquere? The grape making up about 80% of the juice coming from Savoie… a high yielding grape that’s just starting to get second glances. Historically underappreciated, but today highly prized, it’s really the grape that has improved Savoie’s thin-wine reputation over the last 40 years. It takes advantage of the unique microclimate here, which is influenced by both the cool alpine and warm Mediterranean climates. Southern/South-eastern slopes, late October-harvests, and high-elevation (about 1300 ft above sea level) all contribute to Jacquere’s zippy, clean and expressive qualities. It’s a quaffer! Even going into the cooler months.