Laberinto - Arcillas Riesling 2021
Price: $29.99
96 pt Tim Atkin, MW. / 94 pts Wine Advocate / 94 pts Descorchados
Like their Sauvignon Blanc, Laberinto’s Riesling is a decidedly different and unique expression. Tim Atkin, a Master of Wine and a renowned critic calls it “one of Chile's most distinctive and complex whites”.
Por qué? It starts with winemaker Rafael Tirado’s intention. Rafael is proud of his home in the far eastern mountains of Chile. His goal is to reflect the unique aspects of the region by making wine as “transparent” as possible.
- Native yeast fermentation – Cultured yeasts are most selected to emphasize certain characteristics. Typically, to accentuate fruity aromas and flavors. Rafael works with the yeasts naturally present in the vineyards to help translate his vision.
- 15% Stem inclusion – Rafael sees a symbiotic relationship between the grapes and the vine. It seems only natural to include some of the stems in fermentation. These increase the tannins, while also helping to temper the acidity. Which is saying something since the wine checks in with a pH of just 2.09. That’s 40% lower than your average wine!
- No trees were harmed in the making of this wine. Concrete vats (80%) and large amphorae (20%) make sure there are no outside influences on the wine. The amphorae allows for just a bit of oxygenation which helps stabilize the wine. This also limits the overtly fruity notes that come with temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks.
The result is a masterpiece in getting the heck out of the way… er… wine”making”. Riesling’s characteristic stone fruits are present, but the wine is mostly about texture, structure and terroir. The searing acidity refreshes the palate with each sip. This beauty is screaming for food – salads, goat cheese, fish of all stripes, even chicken and pork. But what I am really craving is scallop ceviche! Click the pic for a recipe.
“Called "arcillas" because it's fermented in clay amphoras - the soils in Colbún are volcanic - this is a Riesling that's all about texture and intensity rather than perfume and fruit. Toast, beeswax, citrus and an earthy, dry extract undertone make this one of Chile's most distinctive and complex whites.” Tim Atkin
“An intense Riesling with a somewhat rustic texture and flavors of ripe white fruits and spicy tones that are projected throughout the mouth, driven by acidity that doesn't stop until everything is refreshed. It's concentrated—very concentrated. The finish is fruity, and the aromas of white fruits linger on the palate, while tongue-biting tannins ask for shellfish gratin. This Riesling comes from a 0.7-hectare block that faces south, a cool orientation on this side of the world, with soils of volcanic origin made from volcanic ash.” Descorchados
Wine Advocate: 94 Points
“The 2021 Arcillas de Laberinto Riesling fermented in 600-liter tinaja (20%) and concrete vats (80%), where it matured for 10 months. The soils are very volcanic, and they seem to have lent the wine a stony and rocky character, with the austere profile of the other whites here. Same as with the Sauvignon Blanc, the Riesling, a very aromatic variety, is not that strong here, but it's the imprint from the place that gives the character to the wine. It has 12.8% alcohol and notable freshness and acidity (pH 2.09) with no residual sugar. It's been a search to achieve this wine, with tension but also with structure.” WA
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