Tement - Morillon Muschelkalk 2021
Price: $31.99
Sale Price: $24.99
3+ Price: $22.99 / btl
| Producer | Tement |
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| Country | Austria |
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| Region | Styria |
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| Varietal | Chardonnay |
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| Vintage | 2021 |
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| Sku | 16266 |
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| Size | 750ml |
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By now, most white Burgundy drinkers are familiar with my obsession with finding value in the region. Sometimes it’s the vineyard next to a more famous vineyard. Often, it’s the vineyard sitting at an elevation that was too cold prior to Global Warming. While I certainly haven’t given up my quest, I am expanding its scope to look beyond Burgundy.
I’m seeking out other regions where Chardonnay thrives. Where the balance of ripeness and acidity show off the grape to its highest level. Hmm… let’s pull out the map… ahh… here… Styria, Austria.
As you can see, it is in the same general longitude as Beaune. And the soils are the same – limestone and limestone marl. Where Styria, and the home of our next winery, Kieregg, differs is in elevation. With vineyards as much as 100 meters higher than in Burgundy, Styria enjoys a cooler climate. In July, Styria is a full 5-6 degrees cooler than Burgundy in both high and low temps.
Styria is no Johnny-come-lately to the Chardonnay party. Morillon, aka Chardonnay, has been planted in the region for 200 or more years. So long that, at some point in time, the Styrians forgot what it was. It was simply Morillon. It wasn’t until the 1980s that DNA testing revealed its true nature!
So what? Just a story to occupy my morning?
No… the point is that Styria isn’t trying to mimic Burgundy. While it certainly has all of the requisites – longitude, soil and elevation – Styria makes Morillon. “For us [Morillon] is not just a synonym—it stands for the taste of Steiermark [Styria],” says Katharina Tinnacher, winemaker and proprietor of Weingut LacknerTinnacher.
And that taste? Well… to be frank… it tastes like really good Burgundy from 30 years ago. 😊
And the price? I would compare this with AOC Puligny-Montrachet, Meursault or Chassagne-Montrachet at $50 and up.
Care to give it a crack?
So what’s it like? Warm days lead to ripe notes of peaches, pineapple, and pears, much like you would find in Burgundy. Then the cool nights maintain a vibrant acidity and minerality that we don’t see so much in Burgundy any longer. (Gee, thanks Global Warming).
The result is a Morillon that is at once ripe and plump, yet elegant and refined. Fruit and minerality. Roundness and focus.
Delicious and… well… delicious!
“Delicate meadow herbs, yellow apple, fresh orange zest, a touch of walnut. Juicy, a touch of fruitiness, fine acidity, pear touch on the finish, already accessible.” Falstaff
The winery recommends veal with porcini mushrooms, pasta or risotto. Check out this recipe for Risotto with Mushrooms and Asparagus.
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